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How to Show a Meat Goat |
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Researched by Serena P. 2008-09
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Introduction
Do
your research, before you wind up in the show ring and the judge asks
you about goats and you’re clueless! Breaking your goat to lead
is not easy. In fact, once you get to the show, it often feels like
your goat never learned how. Many people have different opinions
on how to body clip your goat but there are definite ways that work the
best. Equipment might be expensive but it is needed to make a
champion goat. Also if you think you can throw your goat some
weeds to eat you’re wrong. And remember, although disbudding is
not the most beautiful process it is one thing that insures safety!
What I Should Know for the Show
You
never know what the judge at the fair could be like. First, always
watch the judge. Another thing you should know is that cleanliness is
next to godliness when showing goats. Also, if the goat’s hide
pattern shows that is a big distraction. All judges have
different preferences. You should definitely know your goat’s
weight, age, and what breed they are. If you go to a Junior Show, you
should know that they have become the most competitive.
Age Divisions
There
are different Levels in which one can show their goat. First a “Novice”
showman has never shown before, but is less than 12 years old.
After you have completed grades 3-5 and have completed the Novice level
you become a “Junior.” Then, you become “Intermediate,” which is
if you have completed grades 6-8. Next, is the “Senior” once
you’ve completed graded 9-12 (and are not over 19 as of January 1st of
current year). Finally, you can join FFA. That stands for
Future Farmers of America.
Breaking Your Goat to Lead
Breaking
your goat to lead is probably the hardest thing in the whole goat
showing experience. First, you have to have a halter that fits properly
in order to get your goat to lead. Next, tie your goat to a wall,
but don’t leave it unattended. Never use a chain or collar to tie
them. You can practice leading them on either side, but in a real show
you always keep the goat between you and the judge. When teaching
a goat to lead you should keep the chain up under the jaw. This
gives you more control and leverage.
Bathing
People
usually want to have their goats washed and spotless but to do this you
have to wash them a lot and then they just get dirty again. Most
the time people are not aware of what washing does to their beautiful
market wethers or show does. Washing your goat removes all the
oil from their skin. Without this oil the hair becomes
coarse. It also makes them lose their bloom and body fluid.
This would happen twelve hours after bathing. You should wash
your goat at least one week prior to the show. After you’re done,
put a sheep blanket to cover them so they don’t get as dirty. To
haul them to the show take them in a clean trailer so it doesn’t undo
your hard work. On show day, if your goat is dirty you should try
to spot wash it so it doesn’t take the oils out of their coat.
All Boer goats have different hide patterns, so watch out for this and
don’t bring it in the ring if it is still wet.
Body Clipping Your Show Goats
People
have many different opinions on how to body clip a meat goat, but I
found this worked the best. The main thing is to clip against the hair
and stay with the hairline. You should remove all the hair above
the hocks and knees. If you leave the hair below their knees, it
makes them look heavily boned which is a good thing. Another
preference is to leave a paintbrush shape at the end of the tail, not a
switch, fan, or a tail of a poodle. The switch, fan, and tail of
the poodle makes the goat look wider and the rear end look narrower,
which is not good. When clipping, be careful and try not to cross clip-
this leaves lines in the hair. If you think you are just not good
at clipping, that is probably is not true because it is hard for
youngsters to attempt.
Necessary Equipment
Some
people lack some of the necessary equipment because they don’t think
they need it. The truth is, you have to have certain items to properly
show. First of all, you need a tack box to hold all your
supplies. You also need a stand so you can keep your goat
still. Electric clippers with 20-23 teeth on the blade are
essential too because market wethers have to be clipped. To give
shots to your goats, you have to have syringes and needles. To
train you also need halters, collars, and choke chains. Another
very important piece of equipment is a shovel to pick up manure.
Remember, even if the items are expensive, you still need them to
properly show a goat.
Optional Equipment
Some
equipment isn’t absolutely necessary for showing but it might give you
a head start or give your goat some luxury. You might want a blow dryer
so you can dry your goats quickly. A livestock scale is also nice
to have, so you can weigh your market goat. To keep your goats
cool in the summer, and at the fair, you might want to think about
having electric fans. If you bring those, be sure to bring
extension cords. People sometimes don’t want this equipment
because it’s costly but it might help calm your goat.
Feeding Guide
Some
people think they can just turn a goat out in a weedy field and they
will survive on that. They might survive, but this is not the way to
prep a market goat. Market wethers today are striving to have
their finish “bloom”. People think goats will eat anything, but
they are actually picky eaters. Goats that are being shown or
getting ready for market need to be fed more than average. Market
wethers getting ready for a show should eat an average of one pound of
grain per day. You want your goat to be lean and well muscled but
not too lean. Another thing is that you want little or no fat on
their carcass.
Disbudding
When
your little baby goat is getting disbudded they will scream like
they’re dying and you might believe them. Still, you should disbud your
goat at one to two weeks of age or when you first feel their little
horn buds. The supplies you will need are a disbudding iron and a
wood box to hold the little goat. Your goat might scream but it doesn’t
actually hurt them that much they are just trying to make you stop
it. Once you are done disbudding, you give them a tetanus
antitoxin shot. This will prevent the goat from having
infections.
Diseases That Could Get You Disqualified
Pinkeye
Pinkeye
is an ugly disease that can make your goat permanently blind. Viruses
or bacteria can cause infectious pinkeye. Stress can also cause
pinkeye. Flies transmit pinkeye from goat to goat. Signs of
pinkeye are runny, red, and swollen eyes. The dark part of the
eye (cornea) becomes hazy and then turns opaque and cloudy. If
left untreated, the goat begins to lose its eyesight, and blindness can
occur. Pinkeye is not the hardest thing to cure, even though
it’s not a pretty sight. Pinkeye is contagious. If you
think your goat has pinkeye, remove the goat from its herd and put it
in a clean, cool, dry, shady location out of direct sunlight.
Sunlight aggravates pinkeye and delays healing. Terramyacin is a
very mild eye medication which will help clear pinkeye if it is just
the starting. Or use Nitrofurazone powder, twice daily in the
eyes. It has antibiotics and painkillers.
Lice and Mites
Lice
and mites are disgusting! They can make scabs too. The signs of mites
are serious scratching and white scruffy hair that sheds. Goats use
their teeth, rear legs, and sometimes their horns to scratch.
Both lice and mites are small and oval shaped. Mites are orange,
but lice are dark brown. If they keep scratching, they may lose
weight. The treatment is a parasite powder, spray on, or pat
on. If you are not sure about whether or not your goat has
parasites, you should part their hair and examine their skin closely.
Soremouth
Soremouth
is just chickenpox for goats and once you have it your stuck with
it. Soremouth is contagious Ecthyma. The nicknames are orf,
scabby mouth and contagious pustular dermatitis. It is a viral
disease for both sheep and goats. A regular case heals up in two
to four weeks. Only in severe cases does weight loss occur.
There is a vaccine is prevent this.
Caseous Lymphadenitis (CL)
A
CL, which is a chronic bacterial infection that is only contagious when
it pops. It causes external and internal lumps.
Corynebacterium Pseudotuberculosis enters the body through a wound in
the skin, which causes an infection and a slow growing, firm abscess
with puss inside. CL’s are not the prettiest of the
diseases. It should be treated right away and handled carefully. Conclusion Do
you want to be that person in the ring that has no knowledge about what
you’re showing? Well, probably not. That’s why it’s
important to be well informed before showing your goat. The goat
you’re showing can also be almost impossible to lead and sometimes they
even know what to do, but they act like they don’t to try to take
advantage of you. Equipment is not cheap or easy to get but your
goat might not be as gorgeous as it can be without it like if you were
trying to body clip your goat without a clipper. Some people’s
goats do not have their “final bloom” that they need because they are
not getting the amount of food that they need. When your little
goat gets its horns burned off it is not enjoyable to watch since the
little goats stick out their tongues and scream like they’re going to
die. Some people don’t know what their goat has come down with
and they don’t know what to do. You might have the chance of your
goat dying or spreading disease to the other goats in the herd if you
don’t educate yourself.
Glossary
Boer- A type of goat breed that has a brown head and a white body
Buck- A male goat
Buckling- A baby male goat
CL- An abscess that has puss in it that usually appears on the neck, chest, under the jaw or under the ear
Doe- A female goat that has not had babies yet
Doeling- A baby female goat
Finishing Bloom- Well muscled, not too much fat, with a smooth coat
Kid- A baby goat
Kidding- Having babies
Nanny- A female goat that has had babies
Soremouth- Bumps that appear around the mouth that fall off after about 2 weeks
Wether- A neutered male goat
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Who I Interviewed And What I Learned
I
interviewed Judy Wolfe at her house on December 30, 2008 at 1:00
PM. I chose her because she is a very experienced goat shower and
goat breeder. Judy has been showing meat goats for eight
years. Her favorite thing is winning, but she dislikes the judges
that give all the wins to the people who run the show. She told
me some history about when they started showing goats, where they first
developed, and how they got to the United States. Judy thought
that technique and competition had changed the most from the past and
she thought some major problems were that you want to get the right
goat and you have to lead and position your goat right. Her
thought was that if you clip your doe, the goat will look better and in
breed shows it is standard that you clip their tail like a
paintbrush. She also said you should bathe them the day before
the day they leave and when you’re at the fair just as necessary. “The
financial benefit of showing breeding stock is you can sell the babies
for more money and you can ask for higher stud fees,” Judy says.
Her answer to, “How do you decide who will make a good show goat?” was
that if you can’t decide on one, take both. Judy said to look for
a long body, long neck, heavy bones, straight legs, good feet, Roman
nose, and correct horns. She told me that one time she took one of
her goats to a show that she thought would do well. It lost the
first year and then the next year it won so she kept taking it to the
show and it won for six-years in a row.
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The Products I Created
I created a board game called Journey to the Winner’s Circle. It
has some of my experiences from my years of showing. It also has
diseases I have learned about. It has a picture of a goat I beat
at the West Valley Fair. I created a model of a
pasture. It shows what the animals are and what their job
is. It has a barn and a horse trailer to show what an example of
a shelter that goats live in. I also added the guard animals and
they are the Alpaca and Donkey. The Border Collie is the herding
animal. I am bringing my equipment too. I have
a stand that I prepare my goats on, leads that I use to show goats, and
a goat halter also that I use to train the goats.
I made a pamphlet also. It has a word search and a mini fact
sheet. It also has a picture of my goat Peanut Butter.
I will bring my goat trophies. Two of them are black with a
golden goat on them. Another is green and marble with golden
trophy on it. I also have a traveling trophy with the names of
people that have won before me. Finally, I have one with the word
“Best Doe in Show,” that is a little plaque with Risharoo’s name on
it. I won them at the West Valley Fair. I
am also bringing my record book, posters and my Boer Goat
magazine. My record book is a book of what my goals are, what I
did with my projects and my promises. My posters are from behind
my goats at the West Valley Fair and from the expressive arts contest
on promoting 4-H. It talks about how to train your goat and goat
sales happening in the near future.
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Bibliography Author Unknown. “West Valley Fair.” Washington: The Print Guys Inc., 2008. Pp. 8.
Author Unknown. “Market Goat Showmanship”. October 23, 2008. <http://www.msucares.com/pubs/publications/p2263.htm>
Bowman, Gail. “CL’s.” June 23, 2008. <http://www.boergoatshome.com/CL.php>
Damerow, Gail. “Your Goats: A kid's guide to raising & showing”. Pownal, Vermont: A Garden Way Publishing Book, 1993. Pp 44.
Ensminger, M.E. “The Stockman’s Handbook.” Danville, IL: Interstate publishers Inc., 1992. Pp. 312-313.
Gasparotto, Suzanne. “Pinkeye”. July 26, 2008. <http://www.tennesseemeatgoats.com/articles2/pinkeyeingoats.html>.
Glasgow, Wayne and Mary. “Feeding”. October 23, 2008. <http://www.showgoats.net/Goat_Show_Wethers.html>
Mueler, Paul & Poore Matthew H. “Soremouth.” October 2, 2008. <http://www.cals.ncsu.edu/an_sci/extension/animal/meatgoat/pdf_factsheets/ANS%2000%2060/MG.pdf>
Pfalzbot, Gary and Pamela. “ Pinkeye”. Goat World. July 26, 2008. <http://www.goatworld.com/articles/pinkeye/pinkeye.shtml>
Skillington,
Ricky C. “Getting a goat ready”. September 24, October 30, November 20
and
December2,2008.<http://www.utextension.utk.edu/4H/projects/AdditionalResources/Goat/Fitting%20Mark
et%20Goats%20for%20Shows%20in%20Tennessee.pdf>
Stockwell, Felicity. “Lice and Mites”. December 3, 2008. <http://www.smallholder.co.uk/news/976823.External_Parisites_skin_condition_in_the_goat/>
Walters, Robin. “The Market Goat Primer”. December 3, 2008. <http://www.barnonemeatgoats.com/goat.html>
Wolfe, Judy. Personal Interview. December 30, 2008.
Woodard, Jerry. “Proper Equipment”. October 2, 2008. <http://www.premiar-services.org/library/CLUBGOATGUIDE.htm>
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